Understanding 10 Volume Developer vs 20 Volume Developer in Hair Coloring
When it comes to hair coloring, understanding the different types of developers and their applications is crucial for achieving the desired results. This article will delve into the specifics of when to use 10 volume developer and 20 volume developer, and explore the differences between them.
What is Developer?
A developer is a mixture used in hair coloring to open the cuticle layer, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate deeper and act as a catalyst to the dye molecule, aiding in its formation into the desired color. The developer contains hydrogen peroxide, which, in different concentrations, has varying effects on how the hair is processed and colored.
Volume as a Measurement
The volume of the developer is simply a measurement of the parts per hundred of oxygen. For example, a 10 volume developer contains 10 parts of oxygen per 100 parts of other matter. The higher the volume, the stronger the action of the developer.
When to Use 10 Volume Developer
10 volume developer is typically used in tone-on-tone or tonal color applications. This means that it neither darkens nor lightens the hair, but rather changes its value (or lightness/darkness) without affecting the hue significantly. It is ideal for making neutral brown to warm brown changes. Utilizing 10 volume to transition from warm to cool tones or vice versa can be challenging due to the absorption and reflection properties of light.
10 volume developer can lift 1 to 2 levels or possibly cover grey or likely blend grey. In combination with pre-bleach, it may lift up to a level or more and is often used to soften and blend grey hair gradually. The effectiveness varies based on the hair's texture (fine, thick, or coarse), with fine hair strands being more likely to lighten even with 10 volume.
When to Use 20 Volume Developer
20 volume developer, essentially, is 10 volume after kicking back two shots of Pete's espresso. It is more powerful and can achieve more significant effects on the hair.
Covering grey hair: It can cover normal non-resistant grey hair without causing significant change in hue. Lightening hair: 20 volume developer can lighten up to two levels, making it a potent choice for those who want to achieve more significant changes. Pre-softener: For resistant grey hair, 20 volume can be used as a pre-softener, helping to smooth the cuticle and prepare it for the color application. Toning: 20 volume can be used as a toner, providing a better sparkle and a more evenly polished effect compared to bleach. This is often referred to as the ‘Sassoon thing’.Navigating the Variables
It's important to note that the effectiveness of both developers can vary depending on the hair's texture and individual strand characteristics. For instance, fine hair strands are more prone to lighten even with 10 volume, potentially reaching a full grey overage. Therefore, when applying 10 volume, users should be cautious and start with a minimal amount before proceeding.
Conclusion
Choosing between 10 volume and 20 volume developer depends on the desired effect and the nature of the hair. For subtle changes in tone and lightness, 10 volume is effective. For more dramatic changes or covering grey hair, 20 volume is a better choice. Always start with 15 volume when in doubt, and mix both equally to dilute higher volumes.
FAQs
Q: Can tone-on-tone hair coloring be done with 20 volume developer?
Ans: While 20 volume developer is more powerful, it can still be used for tone-on-tone applications, though the results might not be as mild as with 10 volume.
Q: What are the risks of using higher volume developers?
Ans: Higher volume developers can cause damage to hair if not used correctly. Fine and coarse hair strands are more susceptible to over-processing.
Q: How do I achieve optimal results with 20 volume developer?
Ans: Start with a low volume (15 volume) and gradually increase. Mix equally with pre-bleach and apply carefully for best results.