Why Box Dye and 10-Volume Developer Fail at Toning Hair

Toning hair with box dye and a 10-volume developer can be a bit tricky. This guide dives into the reasons why and why professional toners like Wella are often better for achieving the desired results.

Developer Strength

A 10-volume developer is typically used for deposit-only color, which means it doesn't lift the hair color significantly. For toning, especially to neutralize unwanted brassiness in lightened hair, some lifting is often required. Higher-volume developers like 20 or 30 are more commonly used in professional toners because they can both lift and deposit color. This is why many professional stylists recommend these higher-volume developers for definitive toning results.

Formulation Differences

Box dyes are usually designed for all-over color application and may not have the same formulation as professional toners. Professional toners like Wella are specifically designed to adjust the tone of your hair color. They often contain ingredients that help achieve a more precise result, something that box dyes typically lack. Using a box dye for toning could lead to unexpected results, such as using a dye that's too dark or too warm, and end up with undesirable tones.

Color Theory

Toning involves understanding the color wheel and how different colors interact. If you're using a box dye that's not formulated for toning, you might end up with unpredictable outcomes. For instance, if you use a dye that’s too dark or too warm, you could wind up with an unwanted, unflattering shade. Professional toners, on the other hand, are designed with specific color formulations to provide the desired effects without altering the base color too much.

Duration of Application

Toning products often require a shorter processing time than regular dye because they are meant to change the tone rather than provide full coverage. Using a box dye and a 10-volume developer for toning can easily lead to over-processing if left on for too long. This can result in an unevenly toned finish that is less predictable and controllable than when using a professional toner.

Desired Results

If you're aiming for specific tones like ash or beige, professional toners are often more reliable. They are specifically formulated to achieve these results without altering the base color too much. Box dyes may not be as precise, and using them for toning might lead to results that are not as consistent or predictable as you desire.

In summary, while you can technically use box dye with a 10-volume developer to tone hair, it might not yield the best or most predictable results compared to using a professional toner designed for that purpose. If you are looking for specific toning effects, it's generally recommended to use products that are specifically formulated for toning. Professional stylists and cosmetologists often prefer to mix color manually to have more control over the level of the developer and the outcome of the color itself.